Here’s a video that this guy posted on YouTube, then to the Zero Owners Facebook group and to EMF too. Lest anybody who reads this thinks that this is the way to do stuff, I felt the need to give some feedback. Yeah, I probably made another friend, right?
Here’s my response:
You’re gonna think I’m a total jerk, but that was one of the most painful things I’ve watched on Youtube. The title should be, “Using all the wrong tools to do it wrong”. I had to stop watching half-way through.
So, a little advice. Is there a reason you didn’t loosen the pulley end bolt when the motor was in the bike and the drive belt was still on the pulley? That works really well, using the rear wheel instead of manking up your pulley. Yes, “manking” is a word, and it was coined for guys like you. LOL
The cir-clip and retaining clip for the bearing isn’t some magical special thing. It’s pretty much standard for any shaft and bearing assembly, so yeah, you’ve seen it on your motorcycle anywhere you’ve had a shaft, a bearing and a seal. Go spend $20 and get some cir-clip pliers. Prying the retaining clip out with a screwdriver is just going to mank up the slot and make it so you’ll have nothing to hold the bearing and seal in place with.
While you’re at it, go buy a frikkin gear puller. Prying stuff off with any variety of random tool you have around not only breaks said random tools, but it manks up whatever you’re pulling. Guaranteed. Gear pullers apply even pull in the same direction as the shaft. So if you didn’t warp your pulley in your effort to make your pulley stop wobbling, you’re just lucky. You know how you realized that your faceplate on your motor tipped down on the opposite side you were prying up on? That’s what I’m talkin’ bout. You’d use the puller for the pulley, but also for the faceplates of the motors.
ANY time you’re prying metal, USE SOFTER MATERIAL to pry. Yes, i’m shouting. NEVER use steel to pry aluminum. I flinched every time you went near that thing with a damned screwdriver, and when you described twisting the screwdriver instead of prying? I had to turn it off.
I have several brass rods I use as drifts, and pry bars, and I use plastic bicycle tire irons as well, for small parts. I use wood, too. At the MOST, use aluminum. As a general rule, whenever you’re prying some assembly? You’re already Doing it Wrong.
I’m not going to pretend I didn’t do stuff the way you’re doing it at some point in my life, but that’s how I learned how just plain dumb it is. You think you can cheat stuff, you just break stuff, and if you get away with it once, don’t think you’re anything but lucky. I totally applaud any DIY work like this and any attempts to learn, but for the love of FUCK, try to approach it with some degree of professionalism – at least if you decide to film it and post it on Youtube and various forums.
…going back to try to watch the rest, now.
edit: I made it all the way to where you started prying against the heat sink. Then I started crying.
One more thing. The guy gets to the bearings and turns them and wiggles them? That’s not how you decide if a bearing is any good. Just sayin’. And if you don’t have some kind of bearing race and seal kit? You shouldn’t have started the project to begin with. …more bearing tools here.
Update: Burton, (AKA “the guy”) posted a damned good response here. Read it.