Briggs and Stratton ETEK Teardown: via

Want to open up the ETEK?  Piece of cake.  Here’s a great 3-step post on it, via  Great suggestions on when to mark the positions of the parts you’re taking off, too.

Also found this manual: etekmanual Form #275225 ETEK Manual

Now.  Here’s what I did.  I don’t have photos, because, frankly, I was more interested in doing the repair than showing how to do it.  Sorry.

First, I pulled the cover as shown above.  I can’t rave too much about the sweetness of having a good puller.  The one I have is a basic three-leg gear puller, and by taking everything off except two of the brackets, I was able to reach below the legs of the face plate here and toss a pin across the two puller bracket holes.  The cover came off in a heartbeat.

All you’ve done at this point is to pull the cover off.  The magnet got sucked into the rotor when you undid the bolts.

Going to the other side, undo the circlip on the shaft.  There are a few shaft shims, take them out, and then, with a rubber mallet give the shaft a bunch of hard whacks (after you’ve undone the bolts on that side too).  The shaft should move out of the bearing at that point, and the rotor will come out, with the magnets stuck to it.

I then reconfigured my puller with a couple of brackets bolted to the magnets, and used that to pull the magnets off.  I had a few pieces of wood to stick in there between the rotor and the magnet as it separated, and once it got to about an inch and a half away, I could grab the magnet and pull it off.

Watch your fingers.

I was pulling the thing apart because there was some significant binding when the motor turned.  The first thing I saw was something that looked like this, which freaked me out:

The corner of the rotor was all ground off, on one area.  I figured my motor was toast.  I then found this video, showing the same thing, and so I figured that grinding was done in the factory to balance the rotor.  Remember to breathe.

I cleaned everything, checked stuff, noticed the rubbing was on the brush-side magnet from the outside of the rotor, and checked the rotor for wobble.  Sure enough, there was a little run-out, and I tried tapping it gently with a rubber mallet where it was a little proud.  It brought it in, remarkably, and it ran fairly true.  I have no idea why it was like that, and no idea if the problem will come back, but after reassembling the motor it seems to have taken care of it.

The one trick to re-assemble the motor is to bolt the magnets into the housings before you put it back together.  If you don’t you’ll be trying to place the magnets on the rotor and get them centered.  That ain’t easy.  Then when you try to bolt it together again you’ll have a reach to get to the threads, and be pulling the magnet off the rotor with your little bolts and not a lot of thread.  Not easy either.  If you place the magnets in the housing halves, bolt them in, then assemble them, the magnets get firmly seated, the bolts don’t get stressed, and the magnets help you by pulling the whole thing together.

Yeah.  On that.  When you’re putting the brush side housing on (after you’ve put the output side on and replaced the shims and the circlip) keep your fingers out of the way.  It doesn’t go in gently.  It snaps it right in…

Total ET of the teardown, without messing with the puller for the first time?  About 5 minutes, including sipping coffee.  Reassembly?  About 3.  Don’tcha love a motor with one moving part?



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